Nepal:  A Haven like Paradise for Overland Travelers
by Dave Combattelli

In my quest to travel from Portugal to China overland, I will be quite frank in telling you I expected Asia to be my least favorite place to travel through.  I was looking forward to Iran and Pakistan the most.  That was then, and this is now.  As with all great travel plans, one starts off with preconceived notions that have the stuffing knocked out of them after you hit the road.

What's an overland traveler to do?  Coming from India, you should be prepared to take on any barter system, argue any case and survive traffic spawned from hell itself.  You will discover what it's like to be stuck in the worst of the day's heat.  You and your stomach will never have been so closely bonded.  And the idea of a restful day will mean staying locked up in your hotel room.  Coming from China, on the other hand,  you will be aching from undersized sleeper trains and buses.  Your mind will be bombarded by Olympic Games 2008 signs.  Your stomach will be more solid than in India but will still be recovering from seeing giant crunchy bugs ready for eating in Beijing and vacuum packed duck in the supermarkets.  Your brain will also be screaming out to talk to anyone who at least understands the basics of English while you chase after that elusive thirty-day non extendible visa.

Sandwiched in between these two behemoths is a tiny little country that happens to be the roof of the world and where a visa is no problem.  Around Christmas 2007, I first entered Nepal.  In the city of Pokhara, after a half year on the nonstop travelers road, I was greeted by a nearly empty peaceful street with blissful chant music emanating out from the local stores.  Here, I could shop at fake North Face stores and claim bargains that are not even conceivable in the rest of the world.  I could take a leisurely boat ride out onto the still waters of Lake Phewa Tal reflecting the panoramic Himalayas, which can be climbed from starting camps around this idyllic town.  Giant steaks, fresh lake fish and double death by chocolate cake are all staples that aid in one's recovery at any time of the day.  A world peace stupa, paragliding with hawks and white water rafting and then returning to steaming hot showers in ultra clean hotels or hostels.  A true paradise in the heart of travel for any overland weary traveler.

"Kathmandu – the name brings about
a strange mystical thought." 

Then there is the capital itself.  Kathmandu – the name brings about a strange mystical thought.  It's a hectic place with a tourist area called Thamel that shelters you from reality whenever you enter it.  Shops, supermarkets, plush hotels and worldwide cuisines are all available here.  If you step outside this haven you will be back in the push and shove of real Asia.  But here things are a little different.  The houses are old and traditional looking.  Not just any type of old, but Ancient old.  Head down to Durbar square to view the living Goddess and see people sitting around temples straight out of a larger than life Hollywood movie.  Shadu Priests will pose in front of temples as young monks rush by late for school, their red robes flowing behind them.  Beggars will harass you, but never to the point of making your blood boil.  Then the crowds will being to push a little harder and the heat will build up and you'll feel that slight rise in agitation.  Then, if it becomes too much, you can head back to Thamel and indulge in Edmund Hillary's local for an ice cold beer.  Or, if you like this, you can head deeper into the winding back streets of Kathmandu and see ancient golden lion statues become the focus of young children's cowboy like dreams.  Markets will engulf you in aromatic spices as you bargain for silk and cashmere scarves.

Yet Nepal is a land in turmoil.  Terrorist likened Maoist's, Kings that wipe out their own families to stay in power and uprisings every few months make people wonder about visiting such a place.  When I first arrived in Kathmandu, I was not greeted by peace and serenity.  I was in fact greeted by student riots.  Tear gas, riot police and mobs all converged and beat the heck out of each other for the day.  Then, at precisely five pm, they stopped.  The police turned around and went home.  As did the students.  That's Nepal.  I could have sworn I even caught a few waving goodbye to each other.  There was no malice here.  Just people doing their jobs until it was time to go home.  I can not think of any other place in the world where a riot is run by office hours.

This incredible country became one of the highlights on my lifelong journey.  It has also taken claim as my own personal favorite country for traveling in.  The French poet Renier described Esfahan in Iran as being, 'Half a world away.'  I have been to Esfahan and to Nepal.  I don't think Renier ever made it to Nepal, otherwise his words would belong to the roof of the world.

© 2008 Dave Combattelli

Point2Point

A Game Plan for Angkor Wat
by Marshall Crawford

"Forget Angkor," asserts Noel Tan, in his recent article, Five Southeast Asian Archaeology Sites to Visit (that are not Angkor). 

"If you are going to go, you need a game plan,"  is my response.  I traveled to Cambodia twice, once in November, 2006 and again in February, 2008.  I offer this strategy for those who are determined to see Angkor Wat.

#1 To go or not to go?

While there is a great deal of discussion and advice, pro and con, about visiting places like Myanmar, it seems that only recently has there been discussion about the advisability of visiting Angkor Wat, for the sake of the monument itself.  The monuments are literally being ground down by the thousands of visitors.

"The monuments are
literally being ground down by
the thousands of visitors."

Just 7,600 souls visited the temple complex in 1994, when Angkor was first added to Unesco's World Heritage List.   But now that Cambodia has become considered safe, tourists are coming in increasing numbers.  Two million tourists visited Cambodia in 2007 and half of them visited Angkor Wat.  According to an article in The Independent, the temple has become a must-see stop on any tour of southeast Asia.

The thought that authorities may soon have to control tourism by timed entry tells me that if you are going to go, do it soon. The situation is not going to get any better.

#2 Get off to an easy start.

The entry forms handed out on my flight proved to be useless and a new form had to be completed.  To save yourself from this hassle, apply for an E-visa in advance.  Although immigration procedures have improved greatly since my first visit, it can still be a confusing and time consuming operation.  I wish I had known about the E-visa for my February 2008 visit.  There is a $5 fee for using the service in addition to the $20 visa fee.

#3 When to go?

The best time in terms of weather, dry and cool, comparatively speaking, is December to February.  Alas, this is the peak season in terms of visitors and is also reflected in hotel rates.  By April, Angkor Wat is too hot and dusty.  Locals recommend September and October, but you must be prepared for rain.

#4 How long to stay?

If at all possible, stay at least a week.  Angkor Wat is a vast site with many attractions and while a few people complain of being templed-out after three days, I found that a week, (1) allowed time to visit some of the more obscure temples, and (2) took the pressure off from trying to do too much on any one day.  An unscientific poll at my guest house confirmed that most people felt they wished they were staying longer.

#5 Do your homework.

Angkor Wat is both the name of the major temple and a generic handle for the vast complex of buildings, reservoirs and roads that were built over several centuries.  Do your homework on this place; it is large and can be confusing.

#6 Quality, not quantity.

The must see sights are Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm, as the crowds of tour groups at these sites testify.  Don't follow the herd; most of the temples have sufficient space and multiple entry points; avoid the crowd whenever possible.  Go to some of the smaller sites, where you will find fewer people and the charm of the place will have a better chance of winning you over.

#7 Work in progress.

Be ready for restricted access, diversions and inconveniences caused by the restoration work going on all over the Park.  Unless you share my rather perverse interest in scaffolding in the Third World – I have treasured photos of scaffolding and construction operations in Burma, Cambodia and Sri Lanka – it might be best to give these places a miss when you see major work underway.  With so many temples to see, don't get too hung up on any one place.

"With so many temples to see,
don't get too hung up on any one place."

More information:

Tales of Asia is an excellent website by Gordon Sharpless, owner of the Two Dragons Guesthouse and Restaurant in Siem Reap.  He lives there and knows all the local scams, and more to the point, I agree with his assessments.  Drill down into the section titled "Temples" for particular advice on local transport, getting around the Park and all manner of things.

My favorites: 

By all means, Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom are stunning.  I greatly enjoy Angkor Thom, the city of 9 square kilometers of which Bayon is the center.  Preah Paliley is badly eroded, but because of its setting in a forest, casts a special spell.  The other site I find fascinating is Preah Khan, which housed a university of 1000 teachers.  It is overgrown with vegetation now and many of its chambers are collapsing.  Details and photos of these sites are included in my travel journal.

About Marshall Crawford:

Marshall worked as an information specialist in architecture and construction, including spells as a mercenary librarian on big construction projects in both Iran and Saudi Arabia.  American by birth, he has lived most of his life in London.  Travel is a passion and botanical gardens are a special feature on his travel journals.

http://www.shophouseonline.com/

© 2008 Marshall Crawford